Trabzon - Exploring the Black Sea Region

When I mentioned to my Turkish friends that I planned on traveling to Trabzon, most of them seemed to think I was crazy.

“Trabzon will be cold, wet and cloudy!”

“Trabzon people are very nationalistic; they will not treat you well at all!”

“You are planning on DRIVING to Uzungol!! Trabzon people are crazy drivers! The roads are windy and dangerous!! You are insane!”

Thankfully I am good at ignoring people’s advice. Most of the above turned out to not be true at all.

It was 4 AM when we left Fatih’s apartment to catch our bus to the airport. Istanbul was the coldest I had experienced yet. Bundled up in coats and scarves, Fatih, Özkan and I waited in the frigid air. If it was this cold here how cold would it be in Trabzon? I really didn’t care. I needed mountains and nature after three months in Istanbul.

We eventually made it to Sabiha Gökçen International Airport, and through three security checkpoints to get on the plane. Even though it was 7 in the morning and they had been up all night, Fatih and Özkan were like a couple of kids. They don’t fly often.

I’ll admit that I was holding my breath during take off and landing (just last month an Atlas Airline’s jet crashed in Cypress). We were flying with Turkish Airlines, but still….

We were amazed when we stepped off the plane to discover that there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and it was about 15 degrees out. This was the beginning of our good luck, which continued throughout the entire trip.

From the airport we made our way to downtown Trabzon, where Özkan’s friend Selim was putting us up. Throughout our stay were treated to premium Turkish hospitality. Every morning, Selim and his roommate Ahmet cooked an elaborate Turkish breakfast for us, and did everything possible to make us comfortable.

View from Selim's apartment.

One of the many awesome breakfasts Selim and Ahmet prepared for us.

After a short nap, Selim took us for a quick tour of the area. We first bought some tickets for a football (soccer) game later in the evening, then toured the Trabzon football team’s museum. I bought a nice Trabzon football scarf as a souvenir – Bordeaux and blue – the Trabzon colours. Wearing the scarf on game day in Trabzon was a good move. I got lots of positive comments from the locals, including the mayor of Trabzon who we crossed paths with later in the evening outside the town hall. He looked me in the eye, gave me a huge smile and said “Merhaba!” (hello) as he walked by. I had no clue who he was until Selim said “You’re luck continues, you just met the mayor!”.

The Trabzonspor football team museum.

Catching a mini-bus, we caught the sunset from a Çay Bahçesi (tea garden) on a hilltop overlooking the city. The view of the black sea stretching out into the distance was priceless, and the hot çay was just what was needed in the crisp December air.

Selim's Atatürk pose. Revolutionizing a country can be difficult, nation builders need tea breaks too.

With the sun set, we cruised to a local restaurant famous for their excellent köfte (Turkish meatballs), and ate til we could barely move. Moving slowly, we walked from the restaurant uphill to the Trabzonspor stadium. As we approached the stadium, we joined the throngs of exuberant fans decked out in Trabzon paraphernalia, converging on the entrance.

Moving with the group we took our seats to enjoy an awesome match.

Riot cops are very necessary at football matches. A big fight broke out in the stands during the game.

Trabzon was down 1-0 most of the game, there were 20 minutes left, when they scored two goals in five minutes!

When the time ran out, the crowd went wild, and we left the stadium in a mass of cheering Trabzon fans. It was a perfect end to a great day.

Above: dozens and dozens of mini-busses circle the Trabzon town square in a chaotic mass, picking up passengers.

Above: a main street in Trabzon.

From the stadium we took a mini-bus to the airport, where I rented a car for the four of us to drive to Uzungol the next day. Selim had offered to drive as he’d been driving for 10 years (this is Turkey, he’s not that old), but for some reason the rental agency didn’t like his license. It was all up to me get us there and back again alive.

Above: me and our Renault Clio. The most underpowered car I've ever driven.

DAY 2
The next morning we woke up, had another great breakfast prepared by Selim and Ahmet, and then set out in our little Renault Clio hatchback. The thing was ridiculously underpowered – 1.2 liters or something. To get up a steep hill I had to put it in first. Nevertheless, it was able to keep up with traffic. Soon we were cruising along the highway next to the vivid blue Black Sea, with snowcapped mountains in the distance.

Above: a Trabzon firetruck slowly climbs past us going code 3.

Above: the highway was in great condition.

The road to Uzungol followed a river winding inland through the mountains. The first few kilometers of the road went through Rize, which is one of the main çay (tea) producing regions in Turkey. On the hills above the river to our left were verdant green terraces of çay growing, while on our right were the factories of the major Turkish çay companies.

Below: one of many beautiful bridges spanning the river.

Rising into the mountains we began to drive slower, peering upwards at the scattered houses built precariously on the almost vertically steep slopes of the snowcapped peaks around us. Five K outside of the town of Uzungol, Özkan began to look for the side road which would take us to his grandmother’s house (one of the aforementioned mountain top homes).

With an exclamation, he pointed to an icy, single land dirt road which turned sharply off the main road and rose rapidly upwards with no barriers to keep vehicles from plummeting down to the river below. Shrugging my shoulders and uttering the much repeated phrase “This is Turkey”, I downshifted and forced the Clio into the climb.

Luckily the road got better for about a kilometer, but it was still one lane with no barriers whatsoever. Looking to the right, my heart began to pound as all I could see was a straight drop down into the valley below. We were almost at snow level. Finally we got to a point where the road was so bad I refused to continue driving (a wise move, as we discovered that half the road had given out a few hundred meters ahead).

The view was spectacular...

Breathtakingly spectacular....

Walking onwards, we came across a number of locals moving firewood from a large alder tree. They worked effortlessly on the steep, frosted ground - seemingly oblivious to the fact that one misstep would send you rolling uncontrollably down the mountainside.

One of the locals turned out to be Özkan’s uncle, who led us to his grandmother’s house. Following a dramatic tearful reunion (Özkan hadn’t seen his grandmother in three years), we were invited into their small, warm home.

Built on a house site over 400 years old, the ancient wooden building looked out across the valley, offering unparalleled views.

Sitting with Özkan’s step-grandfather, we were served a fantastic traditional meal which included home-made cheese and the local specialty “Lahana” – a delicious, hearty dish made with kale and barley.

After much çay and deep conversation, we said our goodbyes (to many tears) and made our way back to the car.

By the time we arrived at Uzungol, the sun had disappeared below the high mountain-tops which surrounded us, turning the sky a sapphire blue. Everything was covered in a fresh layer of snow, and the town seemed to be muffled in silence. The cold, clean mountain air was scented with wisps of pine smoke rising from the nearby homes.

After visiting another one of Özkan’s uncle’s, we had a delicious meal of Trabzon bread dipped in kuymak – a thick, hot corn/butter paste.

We left Uzungol in the dark, with only the light of the stars and crescent moon above us. Exhausted from our adventures, we slept soundly back at Selim’s apartment.

DAY 3
Waking up late the next day, Özkan, Fatih and I took a 45 minute mini-bus ride to Sumela, where we would hike up the mountain to visit the Sumela Monastery – the number one tourist destination in Trabzon. As we got higher in the mountains, the driver seemed to speed up on the snow covered roads, as if he had a point to prove with his driving. We were literally hanging onto our seats to prevent ourselves from flying back and forth inside as he took corners at over twice the posted speed limit. Good times.

Getting out of the bus at our destination we were in a winter wonderland. It was lightly snowing big soft flakes, and the landscape around us was muffled under a thick blanket of snow. The only sound that broke the silence was the rushing of the small river coming down from the mountain.

Below: our destination - Sumela Monastary.

I suggested scaling the cliff, but they weren't up for it. Apparently Turks aren't as tough as everyone says they are...

Stoked to be in the snow!!

We set off up the road, and hiked for about an hour and a half until we made it to the steps of the monastery.

Almost there!!

They tried their best...

We made it!!! Of course the monastery happened to be closed on Mondays so we didn't get in, but who wants to see the interior of some stuffy old monastery anyways? We were there for the view.

Taking a shorter route down, we said goodbye to Sumela and made our way back to our waiting mini-bus and it's crazy driver.

Wet and tired, we arrived back at Selim's apartment to change and say our goodbyes. Selim and Ahmet's generosity had been incredible, and made our trip that much better. Our Trabzon experience was awesome, and I cannot thank them enough for their hospitality.

Catching an evening flight back to Istanbul, Fatih, Özkan and I reflected on how much we had been able to do in a weekend. Turkey is truly an incredible country.